Detoxing primary and regenerated raw materials to develop a sustainable, circular closed textile process

European Call(s)

CE–SC-05-01-2018 “Method to remove hazardous substances and contaminants from secondary raw materials

CE-SC5-06-2018 “new technologies for the enhanced recovery of by products”- secondary focus

CE-SC5-07-2018 “Raw materials innovation for the circular economy: sustainable processing, reuse, recycling and recovery scheme” a) and /or b) option

EIC–SME Instrument 2018-2020

FET OPEN -01-2018 ( Novel ideas for radically new technologies–RIA)

CE-SC5-12-2018 “ Waste water treatment post”

Name of the organisation

Lanartex srl

Description of the organisation

Lanartex is a Technology center for analysis and research in the textile sector, based in Tuscany in one of the most important international textile districts. An independent company, validated by Accredia, Lanartex offers more than the average service of chemical and physical analysis of yarns, fibers and wovens. It deals with customers by providing technical assistance and expert advice regarding any technological problems and it is a reference for regulatory environmental requirements as well. Its role in this project is to set up the textiles production cycles and to produce the physical and chemical data according to the textiles sector’s international rules, in strict line with the regulatory and environmental requirements. Lanartex works in accordance with the most recognized international standards (UNI-ISO-BSI-DIN-ASTM-AATCC-GB-AFNOR-JIS…) and provide, among others, the following tests • Color fastness testings • Chemical Analysis • Flammability tests • Care instructions • Fiber content label and safety verifications • Validation of new technologies by applying the RSL (Restricted Substances List) tests which specify all the substances harmful to humans and to the environment.

Main areas of expertise

Expertise in Life Science and Specialty Chemicals, including the downstream industrial sectors such as Water Management, Oil & Gas, Coatings and Detergency. Knowledge of the textiles chemistry in relation to Flame retardants additives, colouring dyes, hydrorepellent additives to be applied by extrusion and coating processes to the fabrics. Expertise in data elaboration, statistics, Big Data (data analytics and management) and in on-line data detection systems especially in the water treatments processes. Expertise in Textiles technologies, synthetic and natural fibers treatment processes, including application of membranes separation, antiscaling solutions and nanotechnologies in order to be able to develop ITC proper solutions. Knowledge of environmental European, US and Japan policies and regulatory issues, at least in general terms.

Contact Person

Matteo Marcone

Looking for: Partner(s)

We are looking for a European partner to perform the statistical analysis of the data produced along the project for the different developed cycles according to the existent textiles regulatory system. The construction of a structured sectorial databank is expected and its elaboration as well. The data elaboration must be aimed at a certified sustainable textile process in line with the Detox Chemical list and in order to overcome the consequent restrictions. Therefore publication of the results is a target of the project as well.


Austria - Belgium - Bulgaria - Croatia - Republic of Cyprus - Czech Republic - Denmark - Estonia - Finland - France - Germany - Greece - Hungary - Ireland - Italy - Latvia - Lithuania - Luxembourg - Malta - Netherlands - Poland - Portugal - Romania - Slovakia - Slovenia - Spain - Sweden - UK - Iceland - Liechtenstein - Norway

Main Objectives:

1. To clean the contaminated raw material and regenerated raw material By developing modified methanol washing machine where Input and output positions are equipped with powered conveyors, soaking proceeds in five consecutive methanol bathes and a sixth bath for methanol vapor exhausting. The machine, realized to treat electronic components, must be adapted in a way to contain and treat the textile fibers.

2. To Purify methanol At the end of the innovative process the used methanol will be purified and re-used in the cycle. The usage of a closed-loop model will be a way to shift from a linear, wasteful, polluting way of using resources to a new sustainable process. Our aim is to develop a distillation process, filters and other purification methods to optimize the processing cycle to this aim

3. To remove pollutants from plant input water The existing conventional water treatment plants are not designed to remove effectively all the contaminants from the input water. In literature are shown many different methods or combination of them to remove massive amount of APEOs. Even screening deeply in the literature, it is not possible to found a method to remove this kind of pollutants, in the magnitude of part per billion. The project’s aim is to develop new methods and removing agents to remove APEOs, PFC, CPs and azo dyes from water until the limit of quantification of ppb concentration


The environmental issues associated with textile products are energy demanding, water depletion, and chemicals. Over its entire life cycle, a textile product requires:
• direct usage of land to produce the fibers and the indirect use of land to build production;
• water from various sources for processing and cooling;
• energy for production and transportation;
• large amounts of pesticides, fertilizers, chemicals and other inventories;
• large amounts of packaging materials
• inventories for the maintenance of machines.

The chemicals for textiles are located along the whole supply chain, from pesticides and fertilizers used in cotton cultivation to toxic emissions from wet treatment and toxic chemicals in the after-treatment (European Commission 2003). In addition, since 2011 the DETOX campaign aims at stopping textile industry from polluting water with hazardous, persistent and hormone-disrupting chemicals and has challenged some of the world's most popular clothing brands to eliminate all releases of hazardous chemicals. Therefore this project focuses on “a clean fabric production”, at least from those chemicals whose sources we have recognized to be in the textiles supply chain. Therefore from raw material importation and textile recycling (which cause the pollutants input in the supply chain and the environment), to the dyeing and finishing plant input water (the water is not analyzed and treated, so the chemicals present in solution can contaminate the yarn and the fabric during the dyeing process) down to hazardous finishing product that could be toxic chemicals sources, the challenge is to generate certified processes to make secondary raw materials fitting with the environmental existent policies.

Previous EU experience:

Lanartex does not have any previous experience in EU projects, but its partners in this project have, that are:
Università di Firenze- Engineering Department: International recognized leading institution in design and manufacturing of prototypes.
Italmatch chemicals SpA: a Specialty Chemical Group, with leadership in Lubricant, Water & Oil, Detergents, Plastics Additives, Markets and Technology leadership in Phosphorus Derivatives, Polymers, Esters and Chlorides.
INOTEX (Czech Republic): inoTEX is an R&D and service company operating in the textile segment.